Dynamite White tea from 150-year-old trees and bamboo roasted by a Dai tribe family. Passion fruits and pineapple fizz atop sherry and toffee sauce with the ever-present oomph of Yunnan forest potency.
After the mad love we received for Joy Rider and Hip Cuddler we were energised to bamboo roast more teas so we had a whole load of batches sent to the Dai tribe roasters to stuff in bamboo and make some test roasts for us.
The thought of bamboo roasting some White tea was exhilarating but, truth be told, I didn't think that it would be a winner. I have personally tried to roast Whites a few times before and they always lost something in the heating.
When I sampled this Bamboo Roasted White I was leaping around with happiness (and not just because of the giddy high that this tea brings).
It happened to be the same day that we were having a 'Tea After Dark' party at the teahouse so I brought the stick along to offer to the inner crew of teaheads in the UK. The reaction was unanimous.
'BUY this tea!' was the chorus of the evening. So I did.
But then we had to wait for fresh bamboo to grow (pesky nature). The bamboo was harvested at the end of September and the tea was roasted in bamboo in October before leaving for a month to dry.
As I taste this tea in November it is still settling - every session is delicious while being different - sometimes it is more fruity, other times more caramelled. Clearly, this tea is alive and shifting and it bodes well for ageing!
The picking of this tea are from 150 year old Da Ye Zhong (assamica) trees growing in the mountain forests around Menghai. So, this tea has an undeniable Raw PuErh quality - rich in aromatic complexity, mineral potency, physicality and long lasting sweetness.
The bamboo has added warmth and a rounded syrupy quality to the brews while adding a punchy, rich, fruity aroma which I have never experienced with a White tea.
Renegade Butterfly is fruit-forward on the nose with bright passionfruit and white peach sweet zestiness. This is balanced by the more laidback opulence of sticky medjool dates and sweet sherry.
In the mouth, it is smooth, thick and oily before cascading into a physical quench and sweet prune juiciness.
The taste is a family of flavours. The maternal warmth and brown sugar sweetness, the paternal forests and rocks, the grandparents sipping on sherry and sweet black tea while savouring fine dates dipped in longan honey. The children, bright and ever in motion with creamy pannacotta, pineapple and grape taffy candy.
Each member of the family vies for your attention as the tea shifts through the session. But, just like family, there is harmony in their differences and at its centre is comfort and completeness.
As you can see (I am drinking Renegade Butterfly as I write this), this White tea has a lovely drunken energy - energetic and giddy but with an assuance to let yourself evaporate into your own musings with a smirk, knowing that you are not disappearing but instead are elevating.
I am so thrilled to see how this tea changes over the years in bamboo - possibly perfect conditions to ferment and age. Judging by the lively family of aromatics and deep roots, Renegade Butterfly is going to grow up to be an even more astonishing White, but, just like children, now is the time to treasure its youth.
ABOUT BAMBOO ROASTING
The tradition of roasting tea in aromatic bamboo dates back thousands of years.
The Dai and Bulang minority groups in Yunnan are especially known for this technique which first involves cutting fragrant, green bamboo and cutting it into sections. These are then stuffed with finished tea and roasted over fire which steams in bamboo fragrance and softens the leaves. The soft leaves are stuffed deeper into the bamboo and the sections are topped up with more leaves.
The roasting/steaming and stuffing process continues until the bamboo is filled and the bamboo has had adequate roasting. They are then sealed and left for a month or two to dry completely.
The bamboo stick has a cut out slot for easy opening and resealing (no tools necessary).
